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Joy and Saskia's Mediterranean Adventure

Day 4: The Citadel

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Tuesday, November 17, 1998

 

BY 8A.M., AFTER a quick breakfast of coffee and bread, we were on our way in a taxi to Acrocorinthos, the ruin of the fortress and citadel high above the ancient city. We had seen it the day before from a distance but as it was too high up for George’s car to climb.  

. . . Ganid never grew weary of visiting the citadel  which stood almost two thousand feet above the sea. . . [1472]

The ascent to Acrocorinth  is 1887 ft and is facilitated by a road which climbs to a point near the lowest gate on the west side. This commanding site was fortified in ancient times, and its defenses were maintained and developed during the Byzantine, Frankish, Turkish and Venetian periods. . . .  Within the fortress we follow a path running northeast to the remains of a 16th century mosque and then turn south until we join a path leading up to the eastern summit, on which there once stood the famous Temple of Aphrodite. [http://www.greecetaxi.gr]  

We climbed to the top and shot many pictures and videotape. From here we were able to look in all four directions. . . . 


Joy was at the very top when she took this picture of me

. . . One evening as they strolled about Corinth out near where the wall of the citadel ran down to the sea, they were accosted by two public women. . . . [1472]  

After a while, I walked down alone to the taverna for a Greek salad and a nostalgic Stella Artois beer. I wanted to sit in this panoramic spot and take in the history, read my guidebooks and write in my diary while waiting for Joy. When she returned, having examined every nook, cranny and crevice of the citadel, the owner called us a taxi to take us to the town square of Old Corinth where we sat waiting for the bus sipping ice-cold café frappés. Greece is one place where one can find plenty of interesting outdoor places to eat and drink!  

* * *

At noon George picked us up for a tour of the Corinth Canal and the second harbor, Kenchreai, as well as the remains of the tracks over which the Jesus boat was hauled from one harbor to the other.  


A view of the isthmus, four miles wide at its narrowest point.

In Jesus's day the Corinth Canal had not been built, and boats arriving from Italy (like the one Jesus and his companions traveled on) would dock in one of Corinth’s harbors and be dragged overland to the other harbor when continuing their journey to Athens and points east. 

Gonod had many interests in Corinth, but finally his business was finished, and they prepared to sail for Athens. They traveled on a small boat which could be carried overland on a land track from one of Corinth's harbors to the other, a distance of ten miles. [1471]


A section of the diolkos.

George had speculated that over the last two thousand years the water has risen, which would explain the difference between 4 and 10 miles. My theory is that the harbors are ten miles apart but the diolkos is only four miles long—they would have sailed the boat from one harbor to the diolkos, tracked the boat four miles over to the other side, then sailed it to the other harbor, for a total of ten miles. Another idea is that the overland route has twists and turns, adding up to a total of ten miles. Anybody else got any theories?


Remains of the harbor at Kenchreai


George with the Corinth Canal in the background

* * *

On the way home we stopped off at George’s local ouzeri where, after several small pitchers of local wine, Joy and I became very friendly with the regulars as well as the owner. This gave me another chance to practice my almost-forgotten Greek. I caught it all on videotape.

Back home Helen had prepared food for us, so we ate again. By then we were zonked and all of us joined in the Greek custom of taking a long afternoon nap. After a few hours George woke Joy up to show her his olive farm, a large property that had been in the Markellos family for generations and which sits on a hill overlooking modern Corinth. Having visited it many times in the past, I skipped the tour in favor of more sleep.

Still groggy from the wine, I roused myself in the early evening as we had promised the whole family dinner out at a local taverna. The Markellos’s son Alex (I hadn’t seen him since he was a young teen) joined us there with his sophisticated Athenian girlfriend, Vera. Alex had made a name for himself in Greek television as a reporter and announcer, and was now the general manager of the local TV station in Corinth. During dinner we all became enthusiastic about the idea of doing a documentary about Jesus’ time in Corinth, envisioning it as a slick American production with a Greek voiceover, that would show the modern Corinthians a bit of their history they were unaware of. Maybe one day someone will actually do this!

Back home Joy and I polished off yet another bottle of retsina with George, while Helen stuck to coffee. Finally George went to bed, but before he did, he gave us the keys to the trunk of his car, calling it his "wine cellar,” in case we wanted still more! 

* * *

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or read on by clicking on any of the following links:

1. From Los Angeles to Amsterdam
2. The Flight to Greece 
3. Ancient Corinth 
4. The Citadel this page
5. To Piraeus
6. Hania on Crete
7. A Day in Limbo
8. Back to Athens
9. From Athens to Cairo
10. Cairo
11. The Pyramids
12. The Bus to Israel
13. Jerusalem
14. Bethany and Bethpage
15. An Old Palestinian Hotel
16. The Drive to Galilee
17. Capernaum and Environs
18. The Ancient Boat and Nazareth
19. The Golan Heights and Mt. Hermon
20. The Eastern Shore and Scythiopolis
21. Mount of the Beatitudes
22. Ptolemais and Caesarea
23. A Day in Piraeus
24. Santorini
25. A Rainy Day
26. An Eventful Day in Athens
27. Return to Amsterdam
28. Going Home
    

 
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